Gyongbokgung's Western Gate 'Yongchumun'
Sunshine's Culture Essay
A Stroll in Seochon this Autumn
Even though autumn is in full bloom, I still can't forget the intense heat we experienced not long ago.
Walking along the paths behind my house, like the trail around Mt. Inwang or the nearby Susung Valley, the temperature drops a bit but it was still overwhelmingly hot. I come to think to myself that I should savor this short and poignant autumn. Seochon, once considered a rural village in Seoul despite its location in the heart of Seoul within the 4 main gates, has been swarmed by people sick of high-rise apartments over the past few years. The quiet village of traditional Korean houses remains with a 4 story height restriction with which the residents express some dissatisfaction. Yet many appreciate the tranquil atmosphere and the preservation of the village’s old appearance. There are still many old, worn parts but that’s part of the charm that continues to attract people. After 20 years in the U.S. I returned to find with delight that the Seochon village I had known since childhood remained mostly unchanged. But friends from my school days who used to live close by, had all moved across the river to Kangnam. Those who couldn't even afford the then-affordable Kangnam real estate were the ones who remained in the neighborhood. My mother stayed alone in a large Hanok after my father passed away suddenly and my siblings were all studying in the U.S. Though it was too big for her, mother couldn't part with it. Perhaps it was her memories of my father or the childhood memories of us growing up there. Despite the allure of Kangnam’s rising property values, she couldn't leave behind the house, enduring the difficult maintenance work and the cold winter drafts that crept in. She even wrote a poem reflecting the emotions of not being able to part from the house. Jongno-gu where people have lived near the royal palaces for a long time, has a unique layout with many small districts~ Sajik dong Hyoja dong Pirun dong Tongin dong Tongui dong Naeja dong Nuha dong Nuhang dong~ the list of district names goes on and on. While the name Hyoja dong is known, reflecting the filial son who used to live in the area, Pirun dong where I lived for decades, remains relatively unknown. I wrote a number of columns and essays for 5 newspapers while living in Washington and New York reminiscing about my beloved Pirun dong. At first, I was frustrated that mother was still living in a cold Hanok while others moved to Kangnam and property prices there soared. But after witnessing the wave of high-rise apartments spreading across the country, I came to appreciate the unpolished charm of this neighborhood which refused to change its old ways. Back in those days when fathers came home late because of work, my father who set up a law office with 2 tables after stepdown from the government because of the 5 16 military coup, came home early. We had dinner together and then he went out for walks around Sajik Park or other spots in the neighborhood. As those memories came back, I set off on a walk. I walked toward Yongchumun 迎秋門 the western gate of Palace, one of the 4 main gates. It’s one of my favorite walking routes in the neighborhood. Although I’m saddened by the disappearance of the towering street trees in Gwanghwamun, here the tall plane trees remain just as I remember them from my childhood. Walking along the old Gyongbokgung walls for about 500 meters, I gaze at the majestic Bukak mountain looming ahead. And if you turn to the right you reach the elegant road leading to the Blue Presidential House. Today, 8 foreigners pedaled past me on what looked like an old-fashioned trolley. It was a refreshing and delightful sight, seeing something new travel along such an old road. The name 'Yongchumun' means 'Gate to Welcome Autumn' which fits the season perfectly. I still remember this name vividly because, once when I had lunch with Prime Minister Goh Kun and Professor Song Bok, Goh Kun mentioned that he had created the park in front of the gate during his time as Prime Minister. He explained the meaning of the gate's name and it left a strong impression on me. There’s a small park called 'Tongui dong Village Square' in front of the gate with benches perfect for leisurely reading. On weekends, there are musical performances there. Nearby is a historic buckwheat noodle restaurant where people used to line up when 50,000 visitors a day flocked to see the Blue House. Walking along this elegant road that leads to the Blue House, I can’t help but think 'I used to dream of this while living in Wash. DC and now I’m walking in that road. This can't be a dream, can it?' At the same time I think how wonderful it would be if all the streets of Seoul were filled with such elegance refinement freshness & beauty like here.
Thinking of You from the Past
Laying a floral mat on the wooden porch Cooling off on a summer evening
Son Hoyun
The small village square in front of Yongchumun Gates
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